Simulating Razorwire and Hesco walls

[LoneWolf808]

Well if your planning to make a "Wall" for a FOB-ish kind of feel, to make a long wall you could construct a "Frame" to the length of your "Wall" with Wood, then surround the outside with Chicken Wire, then place the landscaping fabric of the same length of the Wall in the middle of the "Frame" and fill with sand, dirt, bodies of your eneimes ETC. then to top it off, place another layer of landscaping fabric over top of the Wall to Cover.

the Filling Ability will accomplish two of your objectives, the Weight Down and the Fill Part, as the Dirt/Sand will be able to do both at once.

But then again this does take some work, but it would be more stable.

Sorry, just tossing out ideas

[Darius137]

RE: Cutting the razor wire:

1) Razor wire is not meant to be a defense left alone for people to either go over or around. It is usually the closer set of defenses and guarded by properly emplaced defensive positions with intersecting fields of fire in set and well entrenched positions with soldiers briefed on their fields of fire, using heavier Machine guns and range cards, with mines and claymores set into the range card to cover defilade and positions unable to be reached via the soldiers' bullets.

Even easier than cutting individual wires in the middle of a fire fight would be (considering the fact that a bangalore that sprays bb's won't be practical) a soldier running up and either throwing down a cot, or laying down themselves for others to run over, to quickly overcome the obstacle before entrenched positions can eliminate them.

2) For games that are mil-sim and using razor wire in realistic fashion, a poorly defended razor wire obstacle should be designed to be cut for realism and an added immersion factor.


Also RE: LoneWolf808:

1) The sturdiness of HESCO comes from it being filled with solid Earth. It also makes it easier (with a heavy machine) to fill and emplace rapidly to create FOBS quickly. Using wood behind the HESCO lining will be heavy to move into place, expensive and somewhat unnecessary.




I would suggest the idea of landscaping fabric and chicken wire, with possibly a skeleton of 2x4's or possibly smaller beams (this could be what you were referring to, if so I apologize LW808) and then adding some weights on the bottom and a top layer with an inch of dirt (or even foregoing that since HESCO walls should be above normal people's vision, unless of course there is hilly terrain and you're going for a detailed impression from top to bottom, visually) on top to simulate it being filled.

As for razor wire being cut, you can probably "meld springs" as Phoenix likes to do ( :P ) after a cut between rounds or teams that have used it, to re-fuse the (razor) wire back to one solid strand.

BTW, Razor Wire should have several strands interwoven, and with its' springiness, somewhat difficult to quickly snip and pass through.

[Keeper]

Just so I can clarify the Hesco walls...Do you want the ability to climb on them or over them? Or are they just for blocking Movement/View in a particular area?

For temp walls I use Pallets (From Work) and cover them with Burlap Camo Covering (Walmart). Can stack them single (4'x12') or double (8'x12'). Makes nice barricades, but not quite sure it is what you are thinking about.

(Sorry for the large pic)

[Darius137]

This is a HESCO Barrier (wall) being constructed. It folds open then you fill it with local earth:


Then you fill the HESCO:


Then you build a nice little two story wall of them, and add optional razor wire:


Here's an example of a large FOB with a hesco barrier around it. Of course for us, we'd make it considerably smaller:


Now going one step further (I call it thread progression. Catch22 calls it thread hijacking),

Outside of the HESCO wall you'll have some layers of trip flares, mines, razor wire and more fun adventures.

Inside of a FOB, you'll have a few main structures made out of cheap plywood, such as the FOB mayor's personal pool hall gangster hangout, the Chaplain, the Gym, the chow hall, etc. that look like this:


And then the living quarters and other buildings are all tents (or CHUs I guess, but shazaam buying connexes) surrounded by either cement blocks (too expensive, no) or sandbags to protect against rocket attacks:

[Matt]

You could always use visqueen. If you get the heavy gauge stuff, it'll stop a BB. You can cut it to whatever size/shape you want and stretch it over a frame of 1by1 steaks for with maybe a few crossbeams for support. That's going to be one of the cheapest things you can get other than fabric, and it's weather proof.

[DJ]

Dan, the main issue is going to be portability. Straw bales would work until they get wet. They become so heavy that they break up. As far a HESCO goes, I'm thinking maybe hog or cattle panels (4X16) might be a reasonable alternative.
Razor wire or barbed wire for that matter , once it is deployed it is very difficult to handle ( by design) probably rolled chicken wire would be reasonable. The big issue is going to be moving/storing it. speaking as a landowner, I would not be real crazy about tying up real estate with something like this . The back of our farm would be the only exception, but then again it is inaccessible for 9 months of the year due to the high creek. a dedicated air soft field would be the probable exception.

[Wombat Six]

Baling wire should make a pretty adequate substitute for razor wire without the "Goddamnit" factor of actual razor wire. 14.5 guage baling wire, 6500 feet, is about $100. I'd have to get a length of it and see if it's freestanding if you take it off the spool, though.

[DJ]

Baling wire should make a pretty adequate substitute for razor wire without the "Goddamnit" factor of actual razor wire. 14.5 guage baling wire, 6500 feet, is about $100. I'd have to get a length of it and see if it's freestanding if you take it off the spool, though.

The baling wire with black zip ties to help maintain the size & shape of the coils= good idea.

[Darius137]

Baling wire should make a pretty adequate substitute for razor wire without the "Goddamnit" factor of actual razor wire. 14.5 guage baling wire, 6500 feet, is about $100. I'd have to get a length of it and see if it's freestanding if you take it off the spool, though.

Razor wire is strung along with pickets every X distance.

I'm sure with the bailing wire you could get one strip of straight wire or even rope and string the circled bailing wire around that between pickets?

[DJ]

Baling wire should make a pretty adequate substitute for razor wire without the "Goddamnit" factor of actual razor wire. 14.5 guage baling wire, 6500 feet, is about $100. I'd have to get a length of it and see if it's freestanding if you take it off the spool, though.

Razor wire is strung along with pickets every X distance.

I'm sure with the bailing wire you could get one strip of straight wire or even rope and string the circled bailing wire around that between pickets?

I'm thinking about 3 foot coils on a 75 degree angle, where the wire crosses put the small zip ties to help maintain the shape desired. No barbs to catch on each other to help it maintain shape . wooden stakes to help hold the emplacement in position

[Wombat Six]

Baling wire should make a pretty adequate substitute for razor wire without the "Goddamnit" factor of actual razor wire. 14.5 guage baling wire, 6500 feet, is about $100. I'd have to get a length of it and see if it's freestanding if you take it off the spool, though.

Razor wire is strung along with pickets every X distance.

I'm sure with the bailing wire you could get one strip of straight wire or even rope and string the circled bailing wire around that between pickets?

Yeah, if it's not free-standing on its own, you could certainly cheat. I think a spooled piece of 14 gauge would stay in that general shape, so you could just picket and be done with it.

[Switchback]

back to the HESCO really quick, I like the idea. You could use house insulation wrapped in trash bags behind the chicken wire; light, makes that nice smack when a bb hits it, and wouldn't be waterlogged. Wouldn't have that nice look unless you covered it in burlap though.

[Chesty_01]

What about building T-walls out of high density poly-styrene chunks. Very durable in any sort of weather and easy to throw in the back of a pick up truck.

As for the Hesco walls, why not get sticks of re bar or another dowel type object and tie them together with bailing wire, then stretch visqueen or burlap over them to simulate a Hesco wall.

[DJ]

Baling wire should make a pretty adequate substitute for razor wire without the "Goddamnit" factor of actual razor wire. 14.5 guage baling wire, 6500 feet, is about $100. I'd have to get a length of it and see if it's freestanding if you take it off the spool, though.

Razor wire is strung along with pickets every X distance.

I'm sure with the bailing wire you could get one strip of straight wire or even rope and string the circled bailing wire around that between pickets?

Yeah, if it's not free-standing on its own, you could certainly cheat. I think a spooled piece of 14 gauge would stay in that general shape, so you could just picket and be done with it.

based on decades of experience with baling wire ( farmers fix all) it will fall into a flat mess on the ground without some type of structure. You will find it later wrapped 300 times around your axle or mower drive shaft. takes 3 hrs in the hot sun to cut it away 3" at a time

[Mufasa]

Copied from another forum to give you ideas.

It would be easier to make "Razor Wire" than barbed wire. You can buy silvered mylar tape and fence wire. If you take two pieces of mylar tape and stick them together with fence-wire down the middle, you'll have a giant, silver twist-tie. If you then cut the "razor wire" edge shapes into the mylar tape, you'll wind up with something that looks a lot like razor wire, but made of mylar which is not sharp.