TM mk23 Hop Up?

Discussion of GBB (gas blowback) replicas.

TM mk23 Hop Up?

Postby gera229 » Wed Feb 09, 2011 6:15 pm

On a TM MK23 is the hop up rubber or metal?

I bought the tm mk23 for a good deal and it shoots dead accurate.

However when I look at the hop up it looks like it's chipped on the right side looking at it from the back.

So like are there any replacements?

Also do I need to oil this gun in the internals?

It slightly bothers me but the fact that it shoots 0.20g bbs dead accurate does not worry me. It's got a modified extended barrel.

Also I want to use heavier bbs with it for the heck of it. Should I use 0.23 or 0.25? Would I need to put the hop up higher or lower?

With 0.20s the hop up is more than halfway turned.

It may not be clear but I tried as many clear pics as possible.

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Postby Rentax » Thu Feb 10, 2011 4:15 am

OK here goes....

On a TM MK23 is the hop up rubber or metal?

The Hop-up rubber, is rubber... the part that presses the rubbed down onto the BB is metal...

I bought the tm mk23 for a good deal and it shoots dead accurate.

The TM MK23 (an the Y&P Mk23) shoot quite accurate as a stock platform.. the BB's drop off quickly when completely stock, but once an extended barrel is installed that problem can quickly be eliminated. The fact the weapon is forcing the gas in one direction makes the replica very consistent, and once you dial in the Hop-up, that makes shooting consistent on the guns part. you learn where it shoots and you can consistently put the BB in the same spot time and time again.

However when I look at the hop up it looks like it's chipped on the right side looking at it from the back

I don't know what part you are talking about here... more information is needed to address this.

So like are there any replacements?

So like, not really. Your best bet is to find some one with a broken one and salvage the part off of it... Some stores may sell some parts, but I haven't found a good place to get parts from.

Also do I need to oil this gun in the internals?

Yes and no... the replica doesn't really need to be oiled no, most of the parts are plastic and since there is no blow back the oil will really just sit on the internals and catch dust and debit from normal usage. HOWEVER the manual does suggest oiling it (don't do it the way the manual says and oil the top BB of your mag, you will have to fire between 100 to 300 rounds to clean off the hop-up rubber before your gun shoots strait again)

It slightly bothers me but the fact that it shoots 0.20g bbs dead accurate does not worry me. It's got a modified extended barrel.

Like I said before the guns accuracy can be related to it's constancy of gas flow... the extended barrel is really only going to help make the BB go farther.

Also I want to use heavier bbs with it for the heck of it. Should I use 0.23 or 0.25? Would I need to put the hop up higher or lower?


I have seen them fire .43 .36 .28 .25 .23 and .20 bb's
I my personal preference is the .28's The accurate range is around that of an AEG going higher may gain you a few feet more, but the cost of the BB's tends to be way higher...

Correct me if I'm wrong here but generally the heaver the BB is the more hop-up you will need to get it to spin...

With 0.20s the hop up is more than halfway turned.


Because of the way the hop-up works with the MK23 that statement means very little...
The hop-up rubber on the MK23 comes with a rubber nub inside. The metal piece labeled hop-up nub in the photo is pulled down onto the rubber by the adjustment knob. when you turn the hop-up up the piece is pulled down more.

SO, if you get to the point where the nub inside the rubber piece is no longer working, you have get a new MK23 hop up rubber (the only piece that you may be able to find sold individually)

However, if the rubber is still in good working order and the hop up is not working correctly, the metal piece can be slightly (SLIGHTLY I SAY!) bent to compensate for more or less hop-up as needed.

A photo for your enjoyment and to help clarify my above statements...

Image

Hope this helps... if you need more info or photos let me know...
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Postby gera229 » Thu Feb 10, 2011 9:56 am

So a stock is one with the hop up all the way down? Off? Is that why it would shoot down? I don't understand why a stock will be shooting down if it's got a longer barrel than most other pistols. Do other pistols do that too?

As for you can see the pictures to make sure you know what I mean by a chipped hop up rubber. Look on the right side of my picture in the bottom of the first post.

Also what do you mean by the consistency of gas flow?
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Postby Rentax » Thu Feb 10, 2011 6:00 pm

Stock refers a replica that has no upgrades on it. It's "factory stock", as in what was sent to you from the factory.
Stock hop-up units come to you in the off position. And usually you have to turn them up in order to have them work. What a hop up unit does is apply back spin to the BB. The force of the back spin helps the BB defy gravity making the BB fly straighter for longer. With no back spin the BB drops off quicker. This is what a hop up is for... Barrel length helps the BB learn it's course. The longer the barrel the straighter the BB will fly, but this has less to do with how far the BB will go and more to do with how tight your groupings will be... (in a stock rudimentary world, once you start adding Tight bore barrels and hop-up bucking and feet per second variables things change)
Also think of this... Yes the MK23's stock barrel is longer than most other pistols, but were talking minor differences compared to the big picture
TM Sig 229 barrel length: 82mm
TM Sig 226 barrel length: 96mm
TM MP5k barrel length: 110mm
TM MK23 barrel length: 132mm
TM MP5 barrel length: 229mm
TM M4A1 barrel length: 363mm
TM PSG-1 barrel length: 590mm

Think about the difference between 82 and 96 to 132 when you are comparing it with 229 or 363...

I couldn't tell what you were asking before, but from the looks of your picture... I'd say someone thought it'd be a good idea to cut the hop-up in the center and have a V bucking... but doing that weakened the nub and the right side tore off... But that's just my guess... Yes it looks broken.

Consistency of gas flow...
Most GBB's fire a shot of gas, that gas is pushed into the slide and then two things happen the BB is propelled forward, and the gas pushes the slide open. These two thing require the gas to go in two separate ways, therefore the gas must decide which way it's going to go sometimes more gas gets pushed out the barrel others more gas goes to the slide. Making the GBB consistency less reliable than that of a NBB. The NBB has only one way for the gas to go, out the barrel. making it a more consistent shot. Now the way I've explained it here makes it sound like the GBB's are crappy platforms, and that's just not true. They have been build to perform as consistent as possible and if they performed poorly no one would buy them, and that is just not the care. However the minor inconsistencies they do have is what helps bring the MK23 to the top as a competitor on the field.
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Postby gera229 » Thu Feb 10, 2011 7:30 pm

The hop up is an n shape as you can see with the right side torn. What do you mean by V shape? Are V shapes better(I am not attempting to do this it's just for me to know)?
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Postby Nec » Thu Feb 10, 2011 9:22 pm

Rentax, amazing response.
There's a difference between a person who has a screwdriver and a person who knows what they are doing.
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Postby Rentax » Fri Feb 11, 2011 12:49 am

gera229 wrote:The hop up is an n shape as you can see with the right side torn. What do you mean by V shape? Are V shapes better(I am not attempting to do this it's just for me to know)?


In AEG's there are several types of Hop-ups, buckings, and spacers;
H, V, X, or straight...

An H looks like an H
Image

A V looks kind of like like an inverted V and is close to an X
Image

And a straight on looks like a sand bar in the top of the rubber...

Yours should look like a straight....
I bet who ever owned it previously, cut into it making it more like an H or a V.


Nec wrote:Rentax, amazing response.

Thanks, I know the TM MK23's pretty well...
(even if I AM butchering the Airsoft Language, since there isn't a good crossover between AEG's hop-up and pistol hop-up language...)
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Postby Jester316 » Fri Feb 11, 2011 12:08 pm

I've found with the Y&P Mk23, the heavier the bb, the straighter the path of flight. Using .4 or .43 and I can get bolt action like accuracy. It's quite fun. Now to put a long eye relief scope on it....
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Postby Switchback » Fri Feb 11, 2011 12:54 pm

Jester316 wrote:I've found with the Y&P Mk23, the heavier the bb, the straighter the path of flight. Using .4 or .43 and I can get bolt action like accuracy. It's quite fun. Now to put a long eye relief scope on it....


Scout Pistol thread? One of my friends revolvers has a 2x LER scope on it, and it works pretty well.
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Postby Jester316 » Fri Feb 11, 2011 1:04 pm

It currently has an Aimpoint T-1 on it. But magnification is always a good thing.
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Postby gera229 » Mon Feb 21, 2011 12:38 pm

Yup and I am amazed that even with the hop up being slightly messed up it shoots dead accurate and not to mention it came with an extended barrel that extends through almost the whole silencer. Shoot a soda can at about 50 feet in 1-2 tries using AE 0.20g bbs. Want to try 0.25g but a cheaper good quality brand, which one should I get?

Are there hop up replacements? Even though I am new I might know what I am doing lol since I already took the gun apart and looked at it. I don't think I need a hop up replacement but that is just in case. I will never lube the internals because they have no moving parts, but will need to clean the barrel (except it never came with a barrel cleaner) so where can I get a barrel cleaner?
The only place I will lube/ add oil is on the propane tank like 2 drops every 10 fills. My mag doesn't seem to be leaking and lasts around 2 mags.

How long do I hold the propane on the mag (3seconds, 5 seconds?) Because I have not fully mastered on how much I should fill the mag since I am new to duster gas pistols (Especially on the tm mk23 since its not meant for duster how much to I fill propane in it? Probably less than duster is what I am thinking).
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Postby Jester316 » Mon Feb 21, 2011 5:08 pm

They use a VSR-10 hop up bucking. NOT AN AEG BUCKING!

Fill the mag till you can't hear propane moving. I don't put oil in my propane adaptor, I specifically lubricated the mag seals. This prevents the lube from getting into the hop up and screwing things up.
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Postby gera229 » Mon Feb 21, 2011 5:46 pm

Well they say to put oil in the airsoft innovations adaptor kit. What are mag seals that you are talking about, and why do you lubricate them on your tm mk23 instead of applying oil on the propane?

Why do we need to oil it anyway (well yeah propane in bottles does not contain some oil like the ones in green gas cans)?
I mean how can lubricating prevent hop up from messing up and oiling can't if it's like the same thing?
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