by Steve » Sat Aug 20, 2016 10:53 pm
+1 on the heat. Maybe.
Big questions are, do you want to keep the parts you are separating? Also, what are the materials they are made out of?
If that's JB-Weld, it'll over-cure and powder (eventually) between 600 and 1000 degrees. However, you may mess up your outer barrel and / or Noveske. The total crap shoot is the outer barrel material. The Noveske is almost certainly some flavor of aluminum. That means it's melting point is somewhere around 1200 degrees (F), plus or minus. The shitty thing is that the recrystallization temp of aluminum is right around 600 degrees (F), which is the point where deformation is really, really, easy. Like, you'll apply the tool and start tearing semi-liquid metal rather than unscrewing. Depending on what your outer barrel is made out of, it might be fine, or it might deform worse than the Noveske flash hider.
If you have access to it, you might be able to dunk it in liquid nitrogen and then hit it with a hammer. I'M NOT DOING THE MATH, by the way. I'm on vacation. But, here's the theory. When stuff gets cold, it shrinks. The outer diameter of the outer barrel will shrink. The flash hider inner diameter will expand. The JB Weld will glassify. Once it gets nice and cold, smacking the whole assembly should cause the JB Weld to fracture at least a little. Plus, there should be more clearance between the threads and the JB Weld. Applying force to the flash hider should eventually break it free, although you may need to cycle it a few times from room temp to cold to hot to cold. Realistically, probably cheaper to buy a new outer barrel, unless the liquid NO2 is free.
Last option would be to clamp the outer barrel and the flash hider somehow and subject the JB Weld area to vibrational stress until it fails. Like, clamp the whole thing into a lathe, MacGuyver-mount a screwdriver to a reciprocating saw, and as the assembly spins, have the screwdriver keep tapping on the side of the flash hider a couple of times a second near the JB Weld area (at a right angle to the spinning barrel assembly) for a couple of minutes / hours / days until the JB Weld has fatigue-failed. Then remove the Noveske and do whatever ninja-magic you have to in order to clean the rest of the JB Weld out of your threads.
Or, if you have a lathe, just cut the Noveske off and re-thread your now shorter outer barrel and cut your inner barrel down accordingly.
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