Repainting an aeg

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Postby Patrick750 » Mon Jan 03, 2011 5:36 pm

I'm willing to try killbuckets strategy. So am I cutting all the way through the paint? Then I just put some tape on, wait, take it off and see how much is still there or...what?
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Postby Switchback » Mon Jan 03, 2011 7:17 pm

careful there; If you cut grooves into the plastic, you might end up with those grooves when you repaint.
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Postby killbucket » Tue Jan 04, 2011 8:28 am

"Inconspicuous area"

It is not important to go through the paint, but it is kinda hard NOT to.

The idea is to see if a random 1mm x 1mm square is holding, and then evaluate what you see.

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Postby Unconventional » Tue Jan 04, 2011 9:38 am

The following AEG paint technique was used to see if I could paint an AEG to help it "blend-in" better, without having to paint it in a camo pattern..but to still help the gun blend in better for concealment in a woodland/field type of environment:

Here's a few photos of a TM M4-S that I re-painted using Krylon flat camo OD paint and Krylon flat camo black paint. This AEG had been painted tan and OD by the previous owner before I re-painted it. The entire gun and exterior parts were wiped down with paint thinner and then paint prep. The trick I use to give the surface a more used look, without having to purposefully make it look used by hand-sanding it after the paint dries, is I paint AEG bodies, rail system, outer barrel and other major outer parts separately in a high-heat environment. I painted this M4-S during a hot California summer, outside, when it was about 99 degrees outside. The paint will dry extremely fast and will leave a flat mono-tone dull look to the AEG. I did this on purpose as this AEG was going to be used in woodland environments..etc and I needed the AEG to have no glare whatsoever. I sprayed light coats, approximately 1-1 1/2 feet away, over a period of an entire day..spraying in-between coats every 10-30 minutes. The paint is still perfect to this day with no cracks, peeling scratches or any issues...you could say that I oven-baked it like real steel painting...but in a natural oven..California summer heat...lol!


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Last edited by Unconventional on Tue Jan 04, 2011 11:26 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby killbucket » Tue Jan 04, 2011 10:01 am

I heard that on the heat! My first PVC gun bodies warped and cracked like saltines in the SoCal sauna. A switch to 1/4" ABS made them immortal.

That gun looks GREAT!!! If you lack a warm envinron to spray in, fudge it, and spray a bit too far away from the item, so the paint is drier as it hits.

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If you go one step further, and out a mesh bag around the AEG, spray a few more thick coats, you can get a snake texture.
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Tutorial HERE:

http://www.killbuckets.com/snake.htm
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Postby Unconventional » Tue Jan 04, 2011 11:29 am

Beautiful!
Snake patterns are always cool.
Where did you get that particular mesh bag? That Snake type pattern is the closest pattern I've seen resembling a real snake skin or fish scales.
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Postby killbucket » Tue Jan 04, 2011 11:32 am

Dollar Store! It's a cheepO laundry mesh bag.

The net bags that melons and onions sometimes come in are great to use, too.Image
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Postby Unconventional » Tue Jan 04, 2011 11:39 am

killbucket wrote:Dollar Store! It's a cheepO laundry mesh bag.

The net bags that melons and onions sometimes come in are great to use, too.Image



Excellent!
Thank You for that info...got a $1 store right down the street.
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Postby Patrick750 » Tue Jan 04, 2011 4:55 pm

Thanks for the info guys. One more thing, I should take off the parts before painting them right? I don't know how to take off the grip and don't really want to knowing there's a motor in there.
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Postby killbucket » Wed Jan 05, 2011 8:18 am

Paint the grip in place, just take extra care in masking, etc.
To remove the grip, take off the bottom plate, and slide the motor out. Up in the top of the handle are two screws (notoriously hard to put back in).
Some guns have slide-off connectors on the motor wires, but others require you to desolder the motor connections to get the motor out.

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Postby UnHoly8807 » Thu Mar 17, 2011 11:51 am

Useing spray paint its going to scratch and wear anyways. The more time you prep it the more its going to piss you off when this happens. Just take a light sanding to remove anythig flakey and repaint it. Besides it looks tacky to have a perfectly uniform gun.
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Postby killbucket » Thu Mar 17, 2011 11:54 am

Good calls. It is best to keep any coating thickness to a minimum.
Now, if the paint you are covering is over a year old and not chipping badly, doctor it up a bit, and re-prime it.
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Postby Deleteplz » Thu Mar 17, 2011 12:04 pm

Did that stock say RA 19 on the other side? (Just a random question)
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Postby killbucket » Thu Mar 17, 2011 12:10 pm

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No, it was off an Aftermath Kirinex, from:
http://www.aftermathairsoft.com/
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Postby birel21 » Sat May 14, 2011 11:42 pm

Stay away from MEK, that stuff is cancer in a can.

And like the other guy said, Chem rated gloves, lab safety splash goggles, chem apron, and a respirator.
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