My TM Sig226 might be broken?

[RedSpo0n]

So I have a Tokyo Marui Sig226 that I got a while back in a trade. I don't use it much because the mags leaked terribly and I didn't want to bother to fix them since I had plenty of other handguns.

Well, leaks fixed and now I'm finding that the gun won't fire reliably.
Hang in there because explaining how it's behaving might take some effort. =p

Basicly, gas up, slap in a mag, rack the slide, pull trigger, *click* from hammer.

Now, if I lock the slide open, and pull the mag out, you can see the valve hammer/pin dealy in the mag track. If I use my finger to push it into the frame of the gun, re-insert mag and fire - it works flawlessly.

If I release the hammer (with the decock lever or by dry-fire) I have to reseat the internal hammer/pin as described - but I go from empty mag to full mag *combat reload, for example* it will continue to operate just fine.

SO! My question is this - Clearly my dry-firing it empty is contributing to the problem - but is this otherwise 'normal' operation for this model? I.E. it keeps working just fine so long as I don't drop the hammer without firing - or am I missing a spring or something of that nature? *being second hand, I know it's been 'repaired' at least once before I got it*

I appogise if that's hard to follow >.< Thanks for the input!

[RedSpo0n]

That's highly dissappointing.

Am I correct in assuming it's a rare part that will also be a phony pony to replace in the gun?

[RedSpo0n]

I'm comfortable doing it - replaced the trigger and hammer springs in my old WA M9 before, just a pain to do.

Good to know it's available out there though. Nothing like breaking a cool gun only to find you can't fix it.

[Bulldog]

I have replaced a few, 2 on TMs and one on a KJW. They aren't terribly difficult. The 226 is actually a pretty easy GBB to work on.

[Sixxgun]

I'm comfortable doing it - replaced the trigger and hammer springs in my old WA M9 before, just a pain to do.

Good to know it's available out there though. Nothing like breaking a cool gun only to find you can't fix it.

Know how that is got a Tanaka M629 Performance center and I can't get the part I need because it's out of stock

[Rentax]

I too have fixed my 226 a few times.

However the issue, if I understood your explanation correctly, is not actually an issue... Once taking the slide off there is a small silver spring loaded tab that moves up and down Just in front of the hammer on the rail for the slide. This piece on the 226 presses up on the valve knocker when the weapon is dry fired holding the pin in it's outermost position. The result looks like the pin is stuck in place and will not move. However if pull the hammer back till it clicks once, locking it into it's upright position, and then press the silver tab down (what the slide would do if the gun had been fired) the valve knocker should fall back into place flush with the inner wall of the Mag well.
This is ACTUALLY how the gun should function.
I was under the belief that that was my problem as well, but once I opened my 226 up and started looking at how it worked it became clear this was not my problem...

Hope this helped, feel free to hit me us with questions or pictures if needed.

Just re-read your original post, and It sounds like I am discussing a different idea, but it still might be worth looking into.
Now I have the KJW, which is a TM clone, but when I have my slide locked back my replica will not fire. Are you able to dry fire with your slide locked back?

[Bulldog]

It took me about 2 minutes to get my gun all the way down to this level. Granted I have done it a few times to say the least. These may help you or they may not. If you forget how the springs are situated and or need help putting it back together I can make a walk through or snap a few more pics.
Following are pictures of the hammer assembly







These may help, if you need more let me know, doesn't take long to get them.

[RedSpo0n]

Semi-necro for additional information!

Is the KJW completely TM compatible cloned? I could use my TM mags in the KJW?

Cause I like the 'full metal' aspect, along with the Tactical version with the threaded barrel KJW offers - without having to gut my TM to get my repair done.

Secondly, KJWs suffer from the same weakness aswell, yes? Is it a high probability of breaking, and how quickly? *under Propane pressures?*

Also, thanks for the pics, Bulldog. Much better idea of where I need to go before tearing it down. =p